NYFW 2020 [Day 3]: Nicole Miller, Palm Angels, Tibi
Sundays are for subway shots! This marked my Day 3 of NYFW for Nicole Miller, Stevie Boi, Tibi, and a late night show for Palm Angels. In other words, it marked the first jam packed day I ever encountered for New York Fashion Week. Rainy and gloomy day, I decided a subway shot was the best representation — as I spent most of my time travelling from one show to the other on the subway (unlike most influencers I see with a Lexus driver).
I’m usually very wary of giving strangers my phone, but after striking up a conversation with the guy next to me, I learned he has been working at Spring Studios for 8 NYFW seasons! He asked if I just left the Nicole Miller show, complimented my outfit, and was kind enough to snap a few photos. We had a good laugh (lol).
Nicole Miller
Rebellious Royalty And 70’s London Rock
Blown away! I can honestly still feel the music in my soul from the vibes Nicole Miller gave. Their “rock ‘n’ royalty” was evident in the patterns, the clothes, the hair, the music - Everything was on theme for the fall show. The concept title AUTOMATICALLY had me thinking of our rebellious royals, what’s had the media in a frenzy lately, but the show itself evolved to be the most inspiring rock-star attire, almost an ode to David Bowie.
Nicole Miller Fall-Winter 2020
Nicole Miller Fall-Winter 2020
“The range includes pieces intended to break down gender barriers and celebrate the androgynous spirit, and juxtaposes quintessential palace gardens with the underground music scene in London”
Nicole Miller Fall-Winter 2020
Rebellious royalty — if Meghan Markle and Prince Harry’s recent departure from the royal family wasn’t the first thing to spring into your mind, then you haven’t been keeping up with all the news lately! Regardless, Nicole Miller’s collection stands on its own without the royals, it was the epitome of edgy chic, perfect for any city gal/guy with a touch of renegade.
With the reference to 1970’s British rock-and-roll, I began to notice the cultural connection to British rock stars and, of course, David Bowie. The collection is a labyrinth rock vibes, from the edgy leather, a mix of paisley patterns, bell sleeves, and tailored blazers. Aside from the crowns printed on the tops or leather jackets, the true spirit of the show is more rock than royal — a tough feminine look, which I’m all for! Apparently, this was Nicole Miller’s first time sending men down the runway as part of her women’s show, in a time when gender-based concept are on the rise, it was a momentous move. Very in tune to the spirit of David Bowie’s legacy and also to that of Nicole Miller, who I respect for always shaking things up and surprising us all.
On the show itself — speechless. I’ve gone to Spring Studios (where the show was held this season, Feb 2020) before, but leave it to Nicole Miller to transport you to another world. As soon as the lights dimmed, music started, and the models came out — you felt the energy. I found myself bopping my head to the music as I stared at the details in her leopard/floral prints, velvet pieces, and silk shirts. As someone who loves studded shoes and combat boots, I appreciated the details in models’ looks. Needless to say, I can see myself styling each piece my own way. Waiting for Fall 2020!
Show playlist: Playa Grande + Swing by Sofi Tukker
Palm Angels
into the sunset
“You are exactly where you need to be” these were the words you read when entering the palm angels venue. Set in the middle of manhattan, entering Palm Angels was like entering the coolest, after-hours club. Although it was way past my bedtime (grandma-alert) the energy was so intense — I quickly felt the pulse! Lights up and down the runway, palm angels finessed a blend of street style and western tailored knitwear/ outerwear.
Palm Angels Fall-Winter 2020
“mixed a subtle Southwestern spirit with his usual eclectic, mashed-up style”
Palm Angels Fall-Winter 2020
I first starting hearing about Palm Angels back in 2018, when my cooler cousins (the ones into underground street wear and long boarding) started talking about Francesco Ragazzi’s LA brand. This season’s collection was an homage to America, specifically the Southwest, as it gave a very “The Good, The Bad, and The Ugly” vibes. The suede jackets, all things fringe, ponchos, and boots — a mix of Western street-cool, all that was missing was Clint Eastwood! Leave it to Ragazzi to make streetwear look tailored elegant, it was all in the details. He took jeans and jackets to the finest craft detail while adding his own mix of prints, bold accessories, and even created the half/half look (one piece in particular that stood out to me was the half denim, half plush jacket).
The mountain landscapes prints on sweaters and blanket button-downs blazers were just a few of the showstoppers. My favorite details revolved around the cowboy theme: the fringe, the cowboy boots, over-sized hats.
The show itself was everything Palm Angels represents AND MORE. Their guest list was a crowd of musicians, actors, long-time fans, and everyday writers, but everyone was dressed in the coolest style, no doubt. Even for a 9 p.m time slot, which I’ll admit had me tired, the venue was packed — with a line out the door of people trying to enter! It was like entering the dopest, after-hours club and it only got better from the entrance. Every seat was filled. Once inside the energy was electrifying. From the light show to the music, you felt the pulse in the air. We were loud, we were cheering, we were in a vibe. While I was headed towards the exit to head on home, the rest of the crowd was making plans to head out in New York City, as their night was just starting! That was, by far, the truest concept of Palm Angels.
One thing I noticed, and many pointed out, is the risk of appropriating Indigenous Navajo patterns used on the tailoring and some pieces. I had three followers (with Native American backgrounds) express their distaste in the world trying to take their traditional attire in cultural appropriation. Things like dressing as “sexy” Pocahontas was brought up or not understanding the true idea behind their culture.
Tibi
Past, Present, Future
I’ve been a long time Tibi fan, the brand is minimal elegance at its finest, yet somehow still a little chic eccentric through their cuts and colors. Unlike other seasons, Tibi decided to approach this fashion week with a presentation. No models. Just the collection. In what felt like art on display — a beautiful story of Tibi from where it started to where its headed.
Tibi Fall-Winter 2020
“Don’t get me wrong. I love doing runway shows... but we have a lot to say about Fall 2020. It makes the most sense when you look at it in context of the brand.”
Tibi Fall-Winter 2020
A very artistic approach to the 23 year exploration and journey of Tibi. When designers reflect on their brands, they begin to tell a story, that may be different from the typical runway. Something I’ve been noticing a lot of brands do latley (some not presenting during NYFW at all).
During seasons away from the traditional runway format, designers often note that they use the time to reflect on their brands – what’s important, what’s working, what doesn’t, etc. For Amy Smilovic, stepping away from the runway format meant focusing on Tibi’s past, present and future. Her conclusion: that her fall collection would best be seen through an immersive presentation. The result was an archival cum new collection cum art gallery cum grab-and-go Tibi merchandise market all wrapped into one digestible presentation held at the brand’s Soho store.
A gray suit blazer had lapel buttons that could be criss-crossed for a twisted effect and industrial straps on sleeves for cinching, grounded with matching culotte shorts and flat, knee-high leather boots. There were loads of really good boots (among other footwear styles, including a collaboration with Clark’s) — from lug sole and chunky to square-toed and sleek. The designer wanted to communicate the idea that aspiration is a mind-set — your perfect trip can be in your own backyard, not just a far-flung location (often seen on Instagram). Interesting knits, a variety of leather layers, unfussy occasion dresses and plenty of modern suiting offered options for the Tibi woman, wherever her journey might take her.
